Komet Trailer Rebuild

I'm doing a partial rebuild on a 30 year old Komet trailer. I want to replace the large rubber gasket on the top of the tail gate, the Tee handle in the tail gate and the Tee handle on the front hatch. All this stuff has metric dimensions. I will replace parts with English dimensions only if there is no other option. Price quote from the German factory took my breath away ($230 USD). Does anyone know of a US supplier of generic versions of these parts?

Thanks,

Bob

On Wednesday, March 18, 2015 at 2:37:31 PM UTC-4, Robert Ballou wrote:
I'm doing a partial rebuild on a 30 year old Komet trailer. I want to replace the large rubber gasket on the top of the tail gate, the Tee handle in the tail gate and the Tee handle on the front hatch. All this stuff has metric dimensions. I will replace parts with English dimensions only if there is no other option. Price quote from the German factory took my breath away ($230 USD). Does anyone know of a US supplier of generic versions of these parts?

Thanks,

Bob

I fabricated rear latch crank and rods for about $50 using 3/8 SS thick wall tubing and steel flat stock. I had the handle and shaft assembly. It took about 3 hours.
I scrapped the torn rubber thing and don't intend to replace it. The trailer needs more ventilation anyway.
Good luck
UH

On Wednesday, March 18, 2015 at 1:10:08 PM UTC-7, wrote:
On Wednesday, March 18, 2015 at 2:37:31 PM UTC-4, Robert Ballou wrote:
I'm doing a partial rebuild on a 30 year old Komet trailer. I want to replace the large rubber gasket on the top of the tail gate, the Tee handle in the tail gate and the Tee handle on the front hatch. All this stuff has metric dimensions. I will replace parts with English dimensions only if there is no other option. Price quote from the German factory took my breath away ($230 USD). Does anyone know of a US supplier of generic versions of these parts?

Thanks,

Bob

I fabricated rear latch crank and rods for about $50 using 3/8 SS thick wall tubing and steel flat stock. I had the handle and shaft assembly. It took about 3 hours.
I scrapped the torn rubber thing and don't intend to replace it. The trailer needs more ventilation anyway.
Good luck
UH

Thank you for this. I've been thinking of just taking the rubber off and maybe putting a self sacrificing square U channel of aluminum in place of it. I might possibly glue some thin carpet on there as an alternative.

If you ever tow the glider in the rain, I'd think twice about losing the tailgate gasket. I took mine off at one point intending to fix it and forgot about it. Towing back from a contest in the rain I ended up with dirty water on the wingtips and rudder. IIRC, I found a garage door weatherstrip that worked well.

I second the McMaster Carr recommendation.


P3

On Thursday, March 19, 2015 at 9:40:59 PM UTC-5, Papa3 wrote:
If you ever tow the glider in the rain, I'd think twice about losing the tailgate gasket. I took mine off at one point intending to fix it and forgot about it. Towing back from a contest in the rain I ended up with dirty water on the wingtips and rudder. IIRC, I found a garage door weatherstrip that worked well.

I second the McMaster Carr recommendation.


P3

They can help with that, too.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#bulb-seals/=we36mn

Disclaimer: I have no financial interest in McMaster Carr, but am a very satisfied customer.

Steve

On Thursday, March 19, 2015 at 10:40:59 PM UTC-4, Papa3 wrote:
If you ever tow the glider in the rain, I'd think twice about losing the tailgate gasket. I took mine off at one point intending to fix it and forgot about it. Towing back from a contest in the rain I ended up with dirty water on the wingtips and rudder. IIRC, I found a garage door weatherstrip that worked well.

I second the McMaster Carr recommendation.


P3

I suspect the rubber strip is more for protecting the aluminum door when it is on pavement. I may be worthwhile to add protection if the trailer is used that way. The door gap can easily be closed with foam attached to the top using hardware store foam.
Mcmaster part number for SS tubing for lock rods is 89895K739. Two 3 foot lengths required. Flatten on end in a vice about 1 inch and drill connecting shaft holes. Mine were 3/16.
UH

On Thursday, March 19, 2015 at 7:40:59 PM UTC-7, Papa3 wrote:
If you ever tow the glider in the rain, I'd think twice about losing the tailgate gasket. I took mine off at one point intending to fix it and forgot about it. Towing back from a contest in the rain I ended up with dirty water on the wingtips and rudder. IIRC, I found a garage door weatherstrip that worked well.

I second the McMaster Carr recommendation.


P3

Thanks for the garage door weatherstrip suggestion. And, my preference is to have a seal over not having a seal. -Bob

Reminds me of a joke....

Boggs

On Thursday, March 19, 2015 at 7:40:59 PM UTC-7, Papa3 wrote:
If you ever tow the glider in the rain, I'd think twice about losing the tailgate gasket. I took mine off at one point intending to fix it and forgot about it. Towing back from a contest in the rain I ended up with dirty water on the wingtips and rudder. IIRC, I found a garage door weatherstrip that worked well.

I second the McMaster Carr recommendation.


P3

Here's the update: I replaced the old rubber with the garage door weatherstrip. Your idea is fantastic! It far exceeds OEM. When closing the tail gate I have to use my fingers to gently force the gasket in for full closure which I look at as a good thing because IT IS SEALED!

As for the Tee handles on the hatch and tail gate, I went ahead and converted to English (from metric) with a couple of Tee handles from a local trailer and RV dealer. They work great.

After I finish polishing all the aluminum I am going to refinish the fiber glass top. I'm seriously thinking of using a paint rather than gel coat.

Thanks for the help.

Bob, you might check McMaster-Carr. They have lots of options available. This could be a starting place to look.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#cam-latches/=wd7xsh

Steve Leonard