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#11
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Chris Reed wrote:
Without TE, you pull back on the stick and the vario cries "lift". Push, and you hear "sink". Even local soaring, this will have you confused enough to be back on the ground faster than you intend. Having once flown a club glider with defective TE, so that in practice it was completely uncompensated, the only way I could soar it was to turn off the audio and fly by the seat of my pants, looking at the needle only when established in a circle at a steady airspeed. Just to offer a different perspective on this, I've been doing a lot of flying this year in a friend's borrowed 1-26 with no audio vario at all. This so disturbed me that I bought one of Mallettec's Mini Varios, the kind that's about the size of a box of matches and just clips on to something. (For me, the hat, because I can't hear it if it's any farther away in a noisy cockpit.) This vario is obviously uncompensated. Worse, I'm pretty sure it's actually negatively compensated. The vent effectively provides pitot-like pressure to the cockpit and, I believe, will cause it to indicate *more* than the true rate of climb in a stick thermal. With a constant airspeed it is surprisingly good; I had thought that cockpit leakage would cause a lot of inconsistency, but unless I do something like open the spoilers it does great. To get to the point of all this, I've done pretty well with this vario. I'm sure I'd do better with a compensated one and it certainly took some getting used to at first. When I first hit a thermal I hold speed to see how big it is, and when I turn in I ignore the beeping until I slow to thermalling speed. Once I've established speed, I can start listening to the beeps again to figure out the structure of the thermal. I really just have to remember that the frantic beeping it gives me when I pull up is not because I'm in a boomer, but just because the vario is temporarily delusional. I'd certainly recommend a compensated vario given the choice, and it may matter a great deal more in higher performance gliders, but at least for me it hasn't been the end of the world. -- Michael Ash Rogue Amoeba Software |
#12
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![]() wrote in message ... On Nov 27, 2:11 pm, Chris Reed wrote: wrote: Shall I infer from your comments that a ****ty TE probe is better than none at all? Yes, definitely. I have a fuselage mounted TE on my glider, and I'm pretty sure I have a slight leak (to be fixed this winter). Even so, it's far, far better than none at all. Without TE, you pull back on the stick and the vario cries "lift". Push, and you hear "sink". Even local soaring, this will have you confused enough to be back on the ground faster than you intend. Having once flown a club glider with defective TE, so that in practice it was completely uncompensated, the only way I could soar it was to turn off the audio and fly by the seat of my pants, looking at the needle only when established in a circle at a steady airspeed. heh the funny thing is that my longest flight was without TE or audio. of course i guess i have a seat of the pants glider. and flying at a steady speed is important. I sent you a couple personal emails. Please check the email account in your ras return address. Wayne HP-14 "6F" http://www.soaridaho.com/ |
#13
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On Nov 26, 6:21 pm, Bob Kuykendall wrote:
Earlier, wrote: ...So I guess my choice is either a fuselage mounted probe, or no probe at all. I recommend the fuselage probe. Ten dollars worth of parts and you're good to go. See Nicks and Johnson for the original idea and its refinement. This article is pretty clear about it: http://wcsa.org/docs/TEprobe.pdf Also, see Sebald for an alternative installation that combines TE probe and radio antenna: http://www.soaridaho.com/Schreder/Co...E_ANTENNA.html Thanks, Bob K. Hi Guys - The quality of the TE probe you need is related to the square of your speeds of interest. A floater and/or low L/D glider is going to be fine with a low-performance probe. The '26 driver that's bothered by the airvent effect should simply remove the canopy and all will be well... See ya, Dave "YO" |
#14
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On Nov 27, 5:00 pm, wrote:
...The quality of the TE probe you need is related to the square of your speeds of interest... Ah, that makes sense. Thanks! Bob K. |
#15
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On Nov 27, 9:05 pm, Bob Kuykendall wrote:
On Nov 27, 5:00 pm, wrote: ...The quality of the TE probe you need is related to the square of your speeds of interest... Ah, that makes sense. Thanks! Bob K. No problem ! In my case, I need a good probe, even though at 100 knots cruise my L/D is degraded to a mere 35:1... See ya, Dave "YO" |
#16
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#17
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On Nov 27, 10:03 pm, Michael Ash wrote:
wrote: Hi Guys - The quality of the TE probe you need is related to the square of your speeds of interest. A floater and/or low L/D glider is going to be fine with a low-performance probe. The '26 driver that's bothered by the airvent effect should simply remove the canopy and all will be well... Speed and drag, it would seem. The need for TE is going to be driven by how long your stick thermals last, which will be made longer by higher speeds and less drag. The vent doesn't bother me exactly, it's just an interesting effect I thought about. As far as the sport canopy goes, the last time I flew I almost froze to death right in the air, so I'm going to have to pass on that idea at least until the weather turns warm again. -- Michael Ash Rogue Amoeba Software freezing is half the fun of the sport canopy. the "im at cloud base and i cant feel my toes but im not going down cause im higher than my CFIG" mindset kicks in. Oh and there goes Nadler, showing off again ![]() ![]() I think my L/D at 100 knots is about 3.5:1, practically the same right?? |
#18
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On Nov 28, 12:55 am, wrote:
On Nov 27, 10:03 pm, Michael Ash wrote: wrote: Hi Guys - The quality of the TE probe you need is related to the square of your speeds of interest. A floater and/or low L/D glider is going to be fine with a low-performance probe. The '26 driver that's bothered by the airvent effect should simply remove the canopy and all will be well... Speed and drag, it would seem. The need for TE is going to be driven by how long your stick thermals last, which will be made longer by higher speeds and less drag. The vent doesn't bother me exactly, it's just an interesting effect I thought about. As far as the sport canopy goes, the last time I flew I almost froze to death right in the air, so I'm going to have to pass on that idea at least until the weather turns warm again. -- Michael Ash Rogue Amoeba Software freezing is half the fun of the sport canopy. the "im at cloud base and i cant feel my toes but im not going down cause im higher than my CFIG" mindset kicks in. Oh and there goes Nadler, showing off again ![]() ![]() I think my L/D at 100 knots is about 3.5:1, practically the same right?? Please don't try fly that contraption so fast; life is short enough as it is ! |
#19
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The probe issue was pretty much settled for me when Bob observed that
the fuselage probe works better in practice than in theory. Thanks for the advice. I'm curious about the "sport canopy". Do you refer to flying with the canopy removed? Is this something people talk about? I saw some video of guys parachuting from a Blanik from which the canopy was removed. It looked cool for the summer. I've flown with the canopy of a 2-33 opened and enjoyed the breeze. Will a B4 explode if you fly it with the canopy removed? |
#20
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