![]() |
If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Sep 26, 1:01*pm, " wrote:
The point here is that while bending a flange may have to be learned, it is a skill that is used over and over again for ANY flange. * -R.S.Hoover Pictures and some more words of yours truly bending such a flange: http://users.lmi.net/~ryoung/2006/11...ilders-of.html I find the use of a scrap of 1/4" softwood ply to be very, very helpful in distributing the blows - NOT door skin, and NOT anything any thicker - if it's too thick it'll form a hard spot at the edge of the ply, and put kinks in. I learned this technigue from a video of Dave Thatcher of CX-4 fame demonstrating this with a folding table, 2 ea 2X4s and a rubber mallet at Sun and Fun a few years ago. Regarding all metal VW powered single place designs, the BK1 is looking really nice, but plans aren't available yet. Bruce has done so much of his own design and engineering that it's not fair, IMHO to call it "an upgraded Hummel". Plans for the CX-4 and the Hummelbird Ultracruiser Plus ARE available, and there are several builder completed airplanes flying for each. I have plans for the Teenie Two...and that's one of the reasons I'm building an Ultracruiser Plus. The Ultracruiser Plus has the added benefit of easily accomodating a flywheel drive prop hub without any airframe changes due to it's bed mount for the engine, but it's a low and slow, fat winged ultralight on steroids, and doesn't suit every mission profile. |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Sep 26, 2:43*pm, flybynightkarmarepair wrote:
http://users.lmi.net/~ryoung/2006/11...atch-builders-... I find the use of a scrap of 1/4" softwood ply to be very, very helpful in distributing the blows - NOT door skin, and NOT anything any thicker - if it's too thick it'll form a hard spot at the edge of the ply, and put kinks in. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ To All: I'm remiss for failing to mention this technique which is often referred to as 'dressing' the flange. As Ryan mentions -- and shows in the photo -- dressing can produce a beautifully accurate flange and is the standard method when an accurate flange -- of any length -- is required. A good example of this would be the flanges on the aft belly skin of the Teenie Two. But there are many cases where dressing, while desirable, is NOT required, such as for the spar flanges. Subsequent steps in which the wing skins are attached to the flanges, will cause the uneveness of the flange to disappear, submerged beneath the wing skins. Some may think EVERY flange should be dressed but that is true for every case. Dressing will produce a neat flange of uniform width but it will also give you a bend that exactly matches the edge of whatever you are using as your clamp. In the case of the Teenie Two spars, the RADIUS of that bend should be at least an eighth of an inch or about 3T (T being the thickkness of the metal). This is because extrusions will be nested INTO that bend. In order for the extruded angles to nest properly their outside corner must be rounded off to match the radius of the bend. If the radius of the bend is too large you will remove too much metal from the extruded angles. Indeed, a bend radius of 3T is pretty much the norm when forming a flange and for the Teenie Two's spars that degree of precision is achieved by sanding or filing the edge of your hold-down and then 'dressing' the metal against it. But the hold-down used to produce a 3T flange in the 0.040" spar stock would be inappropriate for the flanges on the aft-lower fuselage skin, which is only 0.020" ...giving you a bend radius of 6T. For the .020" skins you would need a different hold-down. Metal hold-downs work best but forming the radius'd edge takes quite a bit of work. Wood is much easier to work but is usually too soft to form an accurate bend in heavy gauge aluminum. A good compromise is to use DOOR SILL STOCK. This is usually made of Red Oak and comes in lengths up to six feet. An advantage of the Teenie Two over other metal airframes is that it uses only TWO thicknesses of metal, .020 and .040. Some will argue that this is inefficient, that using a variety of metal thicknesses saves weight. And it does. About THREE POUNDS. The performance of the Teenie Two and the number of them flying makes it clear that a three pound penalty is acceptable. -R.S.Hoover |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Wood over Iowa | [email protected] | Soaring | 6 | June 13th 08 03:47 PM |
Right prop, wrong prop? Wood prop, metal prop? | Gus Rasch | Aerobatics | 1 | February 14th 08 10:18 PM |
FS Soaring Mags 1961-70 Key Decade Wood, Metal to Glass 120 Issues | [email protected] | Soaring | 0 | March 3rd 07 10:24 PM |
Using Balsa wood | Lou Parker | Home Built | 10 | December 8th 03 05:08 PM |
Metal Prop vs. Wood Prop | Larry Smith | Home Built | 21 | September 26th 03 07:45 PM |