Sale today on 12 Volt flexible solar panel

One would think it would be doable using a diode isolator (Schottky diode for low forward loss) - insert diode ahead of the avionics buss on current wiring set up. Then simply wire the new aux battery to the buss side of the diode. No back feed from the AUX to the system.

Thanks, Bumper, may tackle that this winter. Problem so far is I have not been able to identify what you would think of as a traditional power buss.. Several heavy wires come off the main switch, which is over by the side wall of the cockpit. Then large wires disappear deep under the instruments and under the panel. There is just a large mess of wires that come from deep under the panel. I think I will have to pull all the instruments and radio to be able to really get into the power buss.

I have been able to identify the negative buss.

Thanks

Kevin
92

On Sunday, November 27, 2016 at 7:01:02 AM UTC-8, wrote:


Thanks, Bumper, may tackle that this winter. Problem so far is I have not been able to identify what you would think of as a traditional power buss.
Thanks

Kevin
92

If you have an "avionics master switch", the switch that turns off power to all the toys, then the point to put the isolation diode is in series with the wire coming from the battery to that switch (i.e. when you turn the switch on or off, there is still power constant on one terminal - that's the one coming from the battery :c). The the new battery will wire to that terminal of the switch.

If there's no master switch and a bunch of fuses or circuit breakers, and you are blessed with turning off each instrument separately, then you'll need to locate the wire that provides power to those fuses (there may be a common wire going from one fuse to the next to provide power to each) that wire would be serving as the "buss". You'll need to locate the end that comes from the battery and insert the diode in series with that wire at the "first" fuse.

If there's no master switch and a bunch of fuses or circuit breakers, and you are blessed with turning off each instrument separately, then you'll need to locate the wire that provides power to those fuses (there may be a common wire going from one fuse to the next to provide power to each) that wire would be serving as the "buss". You'll need to locate the end that comes from the battery and insert the diode in series with that wire at the "first" fuse.

This is much more the situation I have. No master Avionic switch, just a master battery switch. I bet exactly what you are describing is mess of wires that I have not deciphered yet. Possible there may still be a buss completely buried under all the instruments in the bottom of the bird, but what you said above is probably it. Thanks so much,

Kevin
92

If you don't already have something like THIS
http://www.molex.com/molex/products/group?key=terminal_blocks_and_barrier_strips&chann el=products&gclid=CjwKEAiAyO_BBRDOgM-K8MGWpmYSJACePQ9Cu65mQJFiWpHB7-x5a4XSZ6bTzoRBGPVID3DrTknrPBoCpq3w_wcB,
get a couple and install one (or more) as your DC bus and another as
your ground bus. It will make life so much easier.

On 11/28/2016 7:50 AM, wrote:
If there's no master switch and a bunch of fuses or circuit breakers, and you are blessed with turning off each instrument separately, then you'll need to locate the wire that provides power to those fuses (there may be a common wire going from one fuse to the next to provide power to each) that wire would be serving as the "buss". You'll need to locate the end that comes from the battery and insert the diode in series with that wire at the "first" fuse.
This is much more the situation I have. No master Avionic switch, just a master battery switch. I bet exactly what you are describing is mess of wires that I have not deciphered yet. Possible there may still be a buss completely buried under all the instruments in the bottom of the bird, but what you said above is probably it. Thanks so much,

Kevin
92

--
Dan, 5J

Only been able to find a small ground buss so far. There are a number of wires coming from under the floor board under your knee area and multiple wires coming up to separate breakers. One main over to the side of the cockpit that cuts power on from the 4-6 volt batteries, two under your calf, 2 under feet. I will have to pull all the instruments, radio and transposder to be able to fully explore the area where the multiple wires are coming from under the front of the instrument pod. When we restored our 1-26 I used a similar buss that you linked too.

Kevin
92

Sounds like time to rewire the beast.

Have you considered a 14 volt battery? Back in the 90s I started using
a battery made up of 2 ea. 4v and 1 ea. 6v gel cell batteries wired in
series. I continued using that battery configuration until a couple of
years ago when I switched to LiFePO4. I also have a 14v gel cell
charger purchased through an ad in Soaring magazine. If you want to go
that route, I'll give you the charger for the cost of shipping. Let me
know...

Dan

On 11/28/2016 9:57 AM, wrote:
Only been able to find a small ground buss so far. There are a number of wires coming from under the floor board under your knee area and multiple wires coming up to separate breakers. One main over to the side of the cockpit that cuts power on from the 4-6 volt batteries, two under your calf, 2 under feet. I will have to pull all the instruments, radio and transposder to be able to fully explore the area where the multiple wires are coming from under the front of the instrument pod. When we restored our 1-26 I used a similar buss that you linked too.

Kevin
92

--
Dan, 5J

Thanks Dan, but I will wait. Where the batteries are place they also are an important part of W&B. They are also in fiberglass moulded areas that would not fit a different size and are smaller that the standard 7ah 12v footprint.
Would really like to keep them just for motor, and possibly back up to inst., but put a couple of K2s I have back near the spar.

It will just involve digging into the wiring more than I have already.

Kevin
92